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BretBeermann

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Odpowiedzi opublikowane przez BretBeermann

  1. Baltic Porter #1

     

    8 L Batch Size

     

    3 kg Pale Ale Malt (Weyermann)

    200 g Brown Malt

    200 g Pale Chocolate Malt

    100 g Roasted Barley

     

    30 g Tettnang for 90 minutes

     

    SafLager 34/70 Slurry (from Vienna Lager)

     

    Mashed in with 10 L of water to hit 67 C. Mashed for an hour. Gravity right around 20 BLG. Fermenting at 11 C for a month or two before bottling.

  2. Munich Dunkel #2

     

    10 L Batch Size

     

    1.75 kg Vienna Malt (Weyermann)

    350 g Munich 20 L

    80 g Pale Chocolate

    175 g Melanoiden Malt

     

    30 g Tettnang for 30 minutes

     

    SafLager 34/70 Slurry (from Vienna Lager)

     

    Mashed in with 7 L of water to hit 67 C. Mashed for an hour. Gravity right around 12.5 BLG. No-chilled in the keg overnight. Fermented at 11-12 C. Wanted to brew a Dunkel, but lacked Munich malt. Made due with dark Munich and Vienna.

  3. Rauchmarzen #1

     

    10 L Batch Size

     

    1.9 kg Viking Pear-smoked Malt

    300 g Caramunich Type II

    100 g Flaked Barley

     

    12 g Tettnang at 60 minutes

    18 g Tettnang at 5 minutes

     

    SafLager 34/70 Slurry (from Vienna Lager)

     

    Mashed in with 7 L of water to hit 67 C. Mashed for an hour. Gravity right around 12 BLG. No-chilled in the keg overnight. Fermented for 3-4 weeks at 11-12 C. Nice body, nice balance, and easy drinking on this beer. Wife says it is too easy to drink one after another. Smoke not overly assertive. Quite pleasant. Will definitely consider using pear-smoked malt again.

  4. Ja używam kegi 19 L do fermentacji. 

     

    https://www.morebeer.com/products/fermentasaurus-conical-fermenter-925-gal-35.html

     

    Za 120 dollarów, 35 L, to jak 2 x kegi 19 L. Może lepiej kupic 2 kegi i uzywac, bo mają inne atrakcji niż ten fermentasaurus. Na stożkowy z butelka na doł, powinna byc montowany przez fermentacji i otwarty, zamkniety po fermentacji, a możesz ciągnąć. Przez keg masz drozdze na dole i możesz używac przez diptuba. Są stal. Więcej PSI. Możesz rozlewac prosto do butelki beż refermentacji.

  5. Vienna Lager #1

     

    12 L Batch Size

     

    2.6 kg Vienna Malt (Weyermann)

    50 g Carafa Special II

    50 g Melanoiden

    30 g Flaked Barley

     

    18 g Mittelfruh at 60 minutes

    12 g Mittelfruh at 5 minutes

     

    SafLager 34/70

     

    Mashed in with 8 L of water to hit 67 C. Mashed for an hour. Boiled it down to about 11.5 BLG. No-chilled in the keg overnight. Fermenting at 14 C for a few days before ramping up. Aiming to drink on Thanksgiving (23.11)

     

    large.IMG_20171111_211156.jpg.9d0edf2412ea141cde8be484e0acd986.jpglarge.IMG_20171112_201716.jpg.7ef4828560586b61ba04da5fbf67d6df.jpg

  6. American Pale Ale #1

     

    12 L Batch Size

     

    2.2 kg Vienna Malt (Barke)

    200 g Caramel 120 L

    100 g Brown Malt

     

    15 g CItra at 10 minutes

    15 g Mosaic at 10 minutes

    30 g Citra at flameout

    30 g Mosaic at flameout

     

    Wyeast 1968 - Startered

     

    Mashed in with 7.5 L of water to hit 66.7 C mash temperature. Mashed for 45 minutes. Drew off two sets of runnings to hit 14 L of liquor, and boiled for 30 minutes.  No-chilled in the keg. Fermented it for 5 days before kegging, crashing, and started drinking on day 6. Great aroma, nice balanced bitterness. Darker in color than I was aiming for due to the maltsters used I'm sure, but still within style as a high SRM Pale Ale. Drank straight out of the fermentation keg.

     

    large_APA.png.5225622d320981be93b477753270fcdf.pnglarge_AAA.jpg.cb4013de6dd580269f0e4a4950141354.jpg

  7. Non-alcoholic Ginger Ale #1

     

    10 L Batch Size

     

    Zest of 2 limes and 1 lemon

    2 Large Pieces of Ginger (Minced or Grated)

    Juice of 2 limes and 1 lemon

    3 cups of sugar

     

     

    Begin by bringing  9 L of water to 68 C. Add zest and ginger to a bag or otherwise make sure you can remove/strain it later. Leave, covered, for a few hours. Remove ginger and zest, and add the sugar and juice. Bring to 90 C. Pour into sanitized keg, adding 1 teaspoon of potassium sorbate (sorbinian potasu). Cover, and put under CO2 pressure. Purge the headspace, and allow to cool before chilling and carbonating.

    large.59c7faa8860d8_InfusingSoda(Napj).jpg.319018166e0c927ca6f58fdfd463d5d6.jpg

     

    I use my hop strainer to make the infusion/tea. It works wonderfully.

     

    large.Sorbate.jpg.fa74858ce19677410ee28964e4178907.jpg

     

    I add the sorbate (granulated) without hydrating straight to the keg. The sorbate inhibits spoilage (fermentation). With sorbate, you can bottle it and store at room temperature for up to 6 months before you begin to detect spoilage. Any spoilage works slow, meaning you catch the sulfur production and increase in carbonation prior to any risk of explosion.

     

    large.Chilling.jpg.bf1e8517b49434275c6a5e3872679536.jpg

     

    If put in a keg and kept cold, it should last much longer (if you don't drink it all).

  8. In the U.S., wort is often "canned" for safe storage to be used for yeast starters without having to heat and cool a wort using expensive and difficult to store DME. We tend to use mason jars, a common item similar to the Weck-style jars in Europe. In order to inhibit botulism toxin formation, pressure and heat must be used to destroy any spores. Without a pressure cooker/canner it is impossible to know your wort is safe. Although the risks are low, it is worth investing the small amount in reasonable equipment to protect one's life. Here in Poland, borosilicate lab jars are affordable (labglas.pl has good prices). These jars are autoclavable, allowing them to be sterilized in pressurized cookers. They act as a great substitute for mason jars, and do not have metal components which can oxidize. 

     

    gallery_9098_476_248075.jpg

     

    My 12-liter pressure cooker can fit 7 x 500 mL Labglas.pl autoclavable bottles without issue. I adapted a perforated flat false bottom for use in the cooker, keeping the jars off the bottom. The bottom of the cooker is filled with water to create the humidity necessary to sterilize.

     

    gallery_9098_476_4445749.jpg

     

    When making a typical batch with wort suitable for starters, mashing more grain and using some of the runnings for this purpose is ideal. Starter wort should be between 7-10 BLG for optimal yeast propogation. Small mashes on the side can be a quick project for producing starter wort as well. In my setup, I am capable of running the pressure cooker next to my boil kettle, doing both at once.

     

    gallery_9098_476_81480.jpg

     

    Pre-boiling the starter wort helps drop out proteins in the hot break, but is not necessary. If you use the wort directly from the mash, it will have more sediment. With these bottles and their neck (unlike Mason jars) it is easy to keep most of the sediment in the bottle when pouring into your flask or other starter container.

     

    gallery_9098_476_3806380.jpg

     

    I use a funnel to fill the bottles. If you fill them to the top, they will boil over during pressure cooking. Even at these kinds of levels, you will lose some wort in some cases. If you attempt to depressurize the cooker before it has cooled down completely, the change in pressure will cause them to boil over more than usual. It is best to make a batch matching the size of your pressure cooker, and let it sit overnight. The lids should be placed on and turned partially so that they are not fully sealed, but stay on the bottle.

     

    gallery_9098_476_3117062.jpg

     

    Once they are cool, open the cooker and tighten down the lids. Wash the jars off and store them. I open 2-3 and dump them into a sanitized flask and pitch the yeast directly.

     

    gallery_9098_476_4183136.jpg

     

     

     

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